Berlin Top with Hem Band

Blogger: Sophie Magico

 Berlin Top Hem Band Hack

Hi there beautiful people! I’m so excited to share my first blog post with you. Hemming knits can be tricky even for the more experienced sewists. I keep
putting off buying a coverstitch machine even though I’ve heard it makes hemming a lot easier. 

In the meantime, I’ve resulted to adding cuffs and hem bands to most knit
tops. In this post, I will be showing you how to calculate and add bands to the Styla Berlin top. 

You will need a bit more fabric than suggested for your size by the tutorial.  Alternatively, you can use coordinating ribbing. I personally like to use the same
fabric for the whole garment. I purchased 1/4 yard extra fabric for this one. 

Ok, let’s get to it. Cut all the pieces for your chosen option. I used a projector.

Sew the entire top following the tutorial until it’s time to hem the garment.

Now, first put on the garment and determine if: 
A. Does the top need shortening? Remember the bands will add to the finished length by approximately 2.5".
B. Do you want a relaxed band or fitted band? 

I decided I wanted my top shortened and a semi-fitted band. 

If shortening the top, mark and trim the desired amount off the hem of your shirt. I removed 2" from my top.

Next, measure the circumference of the hem of the top. Multiply this number by 0.85 and add the 3/8" seam allowance. If you are doing a relaxed fit, use a 1:1 ratio.

Since I plan to keep the original finished length and do a semi-fitted hem band, I cut two hem band pieces 5.5" tall and 19.5" wide. 

Place the bands wrong sides together. Fold them in half lengthwise. Press to create a memory crease. Unfold. 

Place both bands right sides together and sew at both short ends using a 1/8" (1 cm) seam allowance.

Fold the band in half at the memory crease, wrong sides together. Mark the quarter points of the hem band and the hem of the top. Please note that the Berlin back bodice has 2 layers! Ask me how I know?

With the top turned wrong side out, place the band inside the top. Match the top, raw edge of the band with the bottom, raw edge o the top and align the side seams and quarter points.  

Sew to attach, using a stretch stitch, making sure to only stretch the band and not the top! Steam press the seams towards the bodice from the wrong side and once more from the right side. 

You are done!