Enclosing a Bodice by Hand with the Invisible Ladder Stitch
Blogger: Ashley Feriante
Enclosing a Bodice by Hand with the Invisible Ladder Stitch
Enclosing the waist seam on a bodice can give a garment an extra professional finish, and it's my favorite way to finish my dresses. In most cases, this can be done by topstitching the lining closed with a sewing machine. In some cases, though, the extra line of topstitching can take away from the final look of the garment. For patterns with extra bodice trim, pin tucks, or special occasion dresses, taking the time to sew the lining by hand can leave you with a perfectly finished bodice seam and no visible stitching. If I used a sewing machine to enclose the bodice on this Florina, the topstitching would interrupt the look of the seamless pintucks running from bodice to skirt. By enclosing the bodice by hand, the stitching is hidden in the lining and not visible from the inside or the outside of the dress! 
Although the Florina pattern is used for this example, this method can be used on any pattern where the bodice can be enclosed. The ladder stitch is also great for neatly closing turning holes on patterns like Sarasota or the Nara and Tully bows. To enclose the bodice by hand, follow the pattern directions or this video for enclosing the bodice seam. Rather than topstitching the lining closed, continue by closing the bodice by hand.
Start by pinning the lining in place as usual. Cut a length of thread several inches longer than the distance you need to sew. I prefer to double the thread over and tie the two ends together in a knot, so I don't have to worry about unthreading my needle while sewing. Blue thread is used, so that it's more visible in photos, and even though the stitches will be hidden, it’s best to use a thread that closely matches the fabric.
Starting at the edge of the bodice (at the edge of the placket for dresses that don't open fully) insert the needle into the wrong side of the bodice lining and pull the needle through to the right side of the lining. This will hide the knot at the end of the thread. Pull the thread taut.
Insert the needle into the skirt, directly below where the thread comes out of the bodice lining, as close to the stitching line as possible. The needle should only pass under the skirt layer and not all the way through the bodice layer. Bring the needle back through the skirt, about ¼” (0.6 cm) down the stitch line. Pause here and make sure the needle isn't visible on the right side of the bodice. Pull your needle through without pulling the thread fully taut. Leave a small amount of loose thread at the end of each stitch to make it easier to see the stitches and keep them even.
Insert the needle into the fold of the bodice lining, directly across from where the previous skirt stitch ends. Bring the needle back through the lining about ¼” (0.6 cm) down the folded edge. Pull the needle through without pulling the thread completely taut.
Insert the needle into the skirt directly across from where the previous lining stitch ends. Bring the needle back through the skirt, about ¼” (0.6 cm) down the stitch line, making sure that the needle isn't visible from the right side of the bodice. Pull the needle through without pulling the stitch all the way taut.
Although these stitches are shown on an ungathered portion of skirt, the process is the same for gathered skirts. Just be sure to check that the stitches are made through the skirt gathers only and not through the bodice layers.
Repeat this process until you have several inches of stitches. You can see here why this stitch is called the ladder stitch. The next stitch is directly across from where the last stitch ends. This creates straight stitches that resemble ladder rungs.
Now comes the most satisfying part of the Invisible Ladder Stitch. Holding the starting point in one hand and the needle and thread in your other hand, gently pull the thread taut, and watch the stitches disappear! Be sure to pull the thread gently without breaking the thread and without gathering the bodice seam.
Continue ladder stitching along the bodice lining until the other side of the bodice reached and the seam is fully enclosed. Tie off with a knot. To bury the knot, insert the needle back in to the bodice lining through the same hole where the knot was formed. Making sure that the needle isn't visible from the right side of the bodice, push the needle back out of the lining about 1” (2.5 cm) away. Pull the thread taut and the knot should disappear into the bodice. Cut the thread and marvel at your perfectly enclosed bodice seam!
