Reverse Applique with Hand Embroidery
Blogger: Christine Hanes
Reverse Applique with Hand Embroidery
Reverse applique is a fun, simple way to add a unique touch to your embroidery projects. It’s a great technique to add a splash of color or show off a print (or several prints) you love. Plus, it’s perfect for using up fabric scraps! With reverse applique, an accent fabric is placed behind the main fabric, then a design is embroidered over it. After finishing the embroidery, the main fabric layer is cut away, revealing the accent fabric underneath!
To get started, the following supplies are needed:
- A knit fabric to embroider on This will be the main fabric. Woven fabrics can be used for the accent pieces, but the main fabric should be knit so that the finished garment can be washed and dried without fraying.
- Chosen embroidery pattern with an outline option Roan will be used in this tutorial; it works so well for reverse applique! The technique can also be used with many other embroidery patterns with an outline option.
- 6-Strand Embroidery floss
- An embroidery hoop
- An embroidery needle
- Scrap fabrics to be used as accent pieces Knit or woven both work with proper preparation!
- Pinking shears or Fray check If using woven fabric(s) for accent pieces, these are optional alternatives to finishing the raw edges with a sewing machine or serger to reduce the possibility of fraying when the garment is washed and dried.
- Small scissors For snipping through the top, knit fabric layer to reveal the accent fabric!
- Water soluble stabilizer It can help to transfer embroidery design on dark/busy fabrics. This is optional.
- Stitch covering. Cloud Cover or Tender Touch can be applied if the project is unlined, to help cover the threads and to improve comfort against the wearer’s skin. Also optional!
The first thing to do is choose the ideal knit fabric for reverse applique. Make sure it is not too thin or slinky, otherwise the applique may distort the fabric. Fabrics like French terry, sweatshirt fleece, and knits with some structure work well for this technique. Be mindful of the size of your applique design, particularly when using woven scraps for the accent pieces. Woven fabrics without stretch can limit the overall flexibility of the garment and affect its fit if they fill a large portion of the garment. It is important to consider the intended fit of your garment in general, too. Loose, relaxed, or semi-fitted styles are ideal because they allow the applique to lay nicely, without being distorted or impacting the fit. Once you have chosen the right fabric and pattern, you’re ready to get the reverse applique process started!
Cut a piece of fabric that is larger than both the pattern piece and the embroidery hoop. It's best to cut out the pattern after finishing the applique. Cutting the pattern piece first can lead to distortion or poor fit in the hoop, which may cause puckering. I prefer to hoop my fabric after placing the accent fabric pieces, so the tension is the same on the main fabric as it is on the accent pieces. If using a large enough scrap fabric piece, the fabric can be secured in place with the hoop. That said, the fabric can be hooped first if desired!
Prepare the embroidery design to be used for the reverse applique. Consider the spacing between letters or other design elements, ensure there is enough room so the embroidery outlines do not touch. If using multiple fabrics for the accents, also make sure there is enough space between the letters or design elements for each accent fabric piece to be secured. Once the embroidery design is planned, transfer the design to the right side of the main fabric.
With the design in place, select the accent fabric! Use the design as a guide to determine the size needed for the accent fabric pieces. Whether using one fabric or multiple, make sure the pieces are large enough to cover the letters or designs with ½” (1.2 cm) extra fabric around all edges so the design is fully covered.
If using knit fabric(s) for the applique fabric accents, the raw edges do not need to be finished. If using woven fabric(s) for the applique fabric accents, the raw edges should be finished to prevent fraying when the finished garment is washed and dried. The raw edges can be finished in several ways. Use a serger or overlock stitch secured edge, or choose no-sew options like pinking shears or fray check to minimize fraying. Alternatively, hem the raw edges by folding the fabric's right sides together with a ¼” (0.6 cm) seam allowance, pressing it, then folding under another ¼” (0.6 cm) and edgestitching to fully enclose the raw edges. Note that hemming will add some bulk to the accent fabric pieces, and larger pieces will need to be cut to account for the seam allowance.
Place pins in the main fabric to mark the placement of the embroidery designs. On the wrong side of the fabric, use the pins as a guide to place your accent fabric pieces.
You can skip some of the guesswork in determining placement by printing or tracing your chosen design onto a piece of paper to create a template to use on the wrong side of the fabric. Use the pins as a guide to place the template on the wrong side of the fabric, so the design image is reversed. With the template in place, use a removable marking tool or pins to mark the boundaries of the embroidery design. If using multiple fabrics, use the template to mark the start and end points of the design elements, guiding where each accent fabric piece should go.
With the wrong side of the main fabric up, place the accent fabric piece over the design, within the boundaries you marked. The right side of the accent fabric piece will be placed against the wrong side of your main fabric. Secure the accent fabric pieces in place with pins, hem tape, or (my personal favorite) a washable glue stick.
When using multiple accent fabric pieces, carefully plan their placement to avoid visible overlaps in the finished design, especially if your design elements or letters are close together. Leave space between pieces to ensure each design element or letter is fully covered by a fabric accent piece. Once the first accent pieces are positioned, layer additional accent pieces as needed to cover the remaining design elements or letters until they are all covered.
After the fabric accent pieces are secured, hoop your fabric. Be aware of the pins, so they are not caught in the hoop.
With the fabric prepped, you are all set to start the embroidery! Follow the embroidery pattern’s guidelines for thread counts and stitch options for your outline. For reverse applique, it is best to use a smaller stitch length, no larger than ¼” (0.6 cm), to securely attach the accent fabric to the main fabric. Embroider around the design outline as usual, checking to make sure the accent fabric is caught in the stitches.
Once the embroidery is complete, it is time to reveal the accent fabric underneath! It is a little scary cutting into the completed embroidery, but the reveal will be worth it, promise.
With the right side of the main fabric facing up, gently separate the main fabric from the accent fabric underneath, to isolate the top layer. Use small scissors to carefully snip into only the top, main fabric layer. Only cut through one layer of your main knit fabric, do not cut through any of the stitches or accent fabric pieces.
Continuing snipping away the main fabric within the embroidered outlines. Cut close to the stitches, being careful not to cut through them.
For letters or design elements with centers, like the letter D, leave the center fabric intact. Take your time and go slowly; the tiny crevices can be tricky!
If desired, apply the stitch cover to the wrong side of your main fabric piece, covering the accent fabric and stitches. Ensure that the stitch cover extends ½” (1.2 cm) beyond the edges of the applique design. Place the fusible side of the cover against the wrong side of the fabric. Follow the manufacturer’s instructions to secure the stitch cover.
The reverse applique is now complete and ready to sew!
