Tutorial: Nikko and Oxford Pattern Mash
Blogger: Deanna Mackin
Nikko & Oxford Pattern Mash Up - Back to School
This year I’ll send my one and only daughter off to kindergarten, so of course I had to create the perfect outfit for this special milestone. When I think of the perfect back to school look, I’m always drawn to timeless, vintage inspired patterns. In today’s blog, I’ve outlined a few simple steps to place the Nikko neck ties onto the Oxford blouse for the sweetest back to school pattern mash.
First, print the following pattern pieces:
-Oxford blouse front and back
-Nikko bodice front
-Oxford sleeve of choice
Lay the Nikko bodice front pattern piece on top of the Oxford blouse front pattern piece, lining up the center fold line and the top point of the shoulder seam.
Draw a line down the curve of the Nikko neckline, transferring this curve onto the Oxford blouse.
Trim off the excess along this line. This will be your new blouse front pattern piece.
The Oxford Nikko pattern mash will create a fully lined blouse. The back pattern piece will be slightly modified to reduce bulk along the back placket. To do this, take the Oxford blouse back pattern piece and measure over 1” (2.5 cm) from the back center. Draw a line. Fold the pattern piece on this line. This will mark the new cut line for the blouse lining only.
Cut the following pattern pieces:
-Modified Oxford front (1 main on fold, 1 lining on fold)
-Modified Oxford back (2 mirror image main, 2 mirror image lining using new fold line)
-Oxford sleeve of choice
-Nikko neck ties (cut chart pages 15-16)
Place the front and back main blouse pieces right sides together. Sew at the shoulder seam as usual, using a ½” (1.3 cm) seam allowance. Repeat this step for the lining. Follow all steps for constructing and attaching the neck ties to the blouse main on pages 23-28 of the Nikko tutorial. The only change is to start the ties 2” (5 cm) from the inside raw edge of each blouse back main piece instead of 3/4” (1.9 cm) as directed in the pattern on page 24.
With the blouse main and lining right sides together, pin/clip around the neckline only.
Sew around the neckline. Trim seam allowance. Pull the lining up and away from the main. With right sides together, align the main side seams and clip/pin to secure them. Sew as indicated to finish the sides of the blouse. Press the seam open and repeat this step for the lining side seams.
Turn the blouse right side out. To finish the back, fold the center back of the blouse main 1/4” (0.6 cm) wrong sides together and press. Fold it another 3/4” (1.9 cm) and press. This will cover the raw edge of the blouse back lining. Sew to secure the fold using a 1/8” (0.3 cm) seam allowance.
Sleeves will need to be added “in the round”. To do so, fold the sleeve in half wrong sides together and sew the raw edge. Sew a gathering stitch at the cap of the sleeve.
Insert the sleeve into the arm opening of the blouse, right sides together. Pin/clip the sleeve around to the arm opening, aligning the seams. Gather the cap of the sleeve so it fits perfectly into the armscye. Sew, then finish the seam.
Finish the elastic casing as directed in the Oxford blouse tutorial on pages 29-32. Hem the blouse using the tutorial steps found on pages 32-33. Add buttons/buttonholes or snaps, and you’re done!
Fabrics: Hawthorne Supply Co.