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Tutorial: Astoria Pinafore with a welt pocket

Niina Kivelä

Guest Blogger: Natasha Christmas

Astoria blog title final.jpg

Hello! Im Natasha, owner of Ellie’s Handmade, a small girls handmade boutique, based in Sydney, Australia. 

I absolutely love the Astoria Pinafore, both the ruffled version and the simple version, and my little girl Ellie is always asking me to add pockets to things for her “treasures” (those wonderful surprises we find at the bottom of the washing machine!). So I thought it might be fun to share how I added a welt pocket to the front of the simple version. 

Link to Astoria Pinafore Pattern:

Firstly cut your pattern out in your desired size. Cut one extra piece as per the chart below. This piece will become the pocket. (please note, this a guide only, you can adjust the size of your pocket to whatever you want it to be, as long as the width fits within the seam allowance of the pinafore bodice).

Pocket - Cut 1

Take your front bodice piece (you can pop the lining aside for now) and fold it in half lengthways first, iron a crease, and then fold the top piece down approximately 1.5” and iron a crease.

Now take your pocket piece, serge all four edges. Next, fold the pocket in half lengthwise, iron a crease, and then fold the top down .75” and add iron that crease in too.

Place the pocket piece, and front bodice piece RST and align the creases so that the counterpoints match. Its really important to be as exact as possible here so that your pocket is centred nicely. Pin in place.

Starting .5” in from the side, draw a line that is .25” above the centre crease, across to the other side stopping .5” before the edge, repeat under the second crease and join the lines to form a rectangle. Your rectangle will be .5” high and look like the above.

Take your fabric to the machine and carefully sew on the rectangle, try to be as precise as you can - if you have your needle in the down function it makes the corners much easier to pivot. Backstitch at the start and finish of your rectangle so that its nice and secure.

Now that the fabric is sewn together, take your scissors and cut  through both layers of fabric on the centre crease stop about .25 from each end of the rectangle and snip right out to the corners, getting as close as you can to the stitching but ensuring you don’t snip them! 

Pull the pocket through to the wrong side of the font bodice and give it a really good press.

See below for front view.

Fold the pocket up to create a small folded edge that just meets the pocket opening. Give this a really good press, turn it over and check that its looking nice!

From the front it will look like this

From the front bodice carefully top stitch around the opening of your pocket.

To create the pocket, we now fold the pocket piece and match the edges. Iron it in half, and sew around the edges to close the pocket off. When sewing the pocket together, gently move the front bodice away so you are just sewing the pocket piece itself!

You are finished! Look at that cute little pocket!

Now continue with the construction of the Astoria Pinafore as per the pattern instructions! I hope you have fun creating the welt pocket! Make sure to share your creations on the Little Lizard King Sewing Pattern Group on Facebook.