I’m sure you’ve noticed, in every clothing store you have stepped foot into lately, that open-shoulders are all the rage. We love to create patterns that offer you options at home for creating looks for your children that are comfortable and on trend. The Glitz Top and Dress is an open-shoulder pattern for designed for woven fabrics that is perfect year-round as it includes both short and long sleeve length options.
Today we are going to show you how to create an open-shoulder Glitz top or dress with knit fabric. Medium-weight fabrics are easier to work with but any fabric with good 4-way stretch will work just fine. The fabric we are using is a pink and white striped knit from Euro Girls Boutique for the bodice and Idle Wild by Riley Blake for the skirt.
After you pick out your fabric(s) you will need to print the pattern and tape/glue it together. There is a little square (usually located on the first page of the printed pieces) called your 1” square. Measure the square and make sure it is exactly 1" x 1” and that your pattern printed correctly.
The back bodice of the original woven Glitz pattern, has a button closure. Since the knit Glitz will be constructed with a solid back bodice piece you will need to reduce the width of your back pattern piece. Trim your back pattern piece to be the same width as your front bodice piece. You will cut it from the side with the straight edge.
You are now ready to cut your fabric. For the knit Glitz, you will cut two front bodices and two back bodices on the fold, one main and one lining. You will also cut 2 sleeves on the fold as well as your skirt front and back.
Following the original Glitz instructions, you will sew the front and back bodice main, right sides together, at the shoulder seams. Repeat this step for the lining. Press the seams open and lay the main and bodice lining pieces, right sides together. Sew around the neck using a stretch stich (this looks like a lightning bolt or a zigzag stitch) as shown in the picture below.
Clip the circumference of the neck seam allowance or use pinking shears. Be careful not to clip through the seam.
Turn the bodice right side out by flipping the lining through the neck. Press the bodice.
Next, we will work on the sleeves. However, in the knit version, you will forego the bias and will simply fold the curve of the shoulder cut out 1/4”, wrong sides together. Topstitch 1/8” from the raw edge to secure.
In addition, we will only be pinning/basting the sleeve to the main arm curve and not the lining. We will sandwich the raw edge of the sleeve between the main and lining arm curve using the “burrito roll method”.
To start the "burrito roll", pull the lining away from the main at the first armscye (like the picture above). The other side of the bodice will now get tightly rolled until it rests on that seamline between main and lining of the first armscye. Bring the lining from the bottom up and around the rolled bodice until you can match it to the main fabric at the first armscye. Your fabric will be right sides together. Pin well and sew. Trim the seam allowance with pinking shears if possible. If not, trim the seam allowance by half and clip into the curve, being careful to not clip any stitching. Turn bodice right side out and repeat process with the other armscye.
After you have repeated this process for the other side, pull the bodice right side out when finished. Follow the directions in the Glitz pattern for creating the sleeve casing and inserting the elastic. An additional step that needs to be completed for the knit bodice is to add clear elastic around the bottom raw edge of your bodice for stability. Do not stretch the elastic as you sew it on. I recommend a zig zag stitch to attach it to the right side. When serging your skirt, disengage your knife and do not trim the seam allowance off.
From this point on you will simply follow the directions for preparing and attaching your skirt, as originally written.
We hope you love this tutorial and the versatility of the Glitz pattern. As always we would love to see your creations, so please post them in the Little Lizard King Sewing Café Facebook group!