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Raglan Hack for those Hipster Boys

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Raglan Hack for those Hipster Boys

Niina Kivelä

Guest blogger Amanda Kapera

This hack is super easy! For the most part, you will follow the original Little Lizard King Ravenna raglan pattern tutorial.

Sizing:

Measure and choose your size according to the size chart.

Style:

Determine what look you want…there are so many options!!  The sleeve includes three options; short, ¾ and long as well as a color block shoulder.  Decide whether you want to use a normal hem or a cuff on the sleeve and/or waistband.

Fit:

Choose the fit you would like, slim fit or a more relaxed fit.  Either way the pattern is not gender bias.  For a slim fit, stick to the pattern measurements but for a more relaxed raglan, size up a size or two.

I made two different versions.  

Version1:  

For Levi (age 6) I used the ¾ length sleeve with a regular hem on both the sleeve and shirt - no color blocking.

This version can be made entirely from the original pattern and tutorial.  All you have to do is omit the waistband and add 3” to the length of the front and back bodice pattern piece.  To hem it you can serge the raw edge, fold it ¾” wrong sides together, press and top stitch in place. Or, fold it, wrong sides together, ¼” and then again ¾”.  Press and topstitch.

If you wish to use a waistband to achieve a more 80’s look follow the original tutorial.

Version 2:

For Billy (age 8) I made a ¾ length sleeve with regular hem and added a high-low scoop bottom with colour blocking. With this option you could also add length to the bodice pattern pieces to achieve the high-low hem without the color blocking.

I decided to use a size 10 pattern for my son Billy, he is only 8 but he wears a 10 normally. He’s very tall measuring just over 140cm!  So a size 10 was a good size to pick for him.

After joining and cutting my paper pattern pieces I began doing the math.

Before cutting your fabric, decide if you wish to make a fake under shirt look or just a simple high low boys tee. Use a washable marker or tailors chalk to mark your fabric. Alternatively, create a paper template.

Instructions For Long Scoop Tee:

Tutorial pic 1

 

Cut the fabric in a continuous piece down along the original pattern piece and continue down along the new lines.

Follow original pattern construction until waistband construction on page 20. Instead, hem by folding ¼” and then another ¾”, press and topstitch.

You’re Done!

Instructions For Undershirt Tee:

If making a tee with a coordinating colored bottom, cut the front and back bodices from the main fabric first.  Then, use the pattern as a guide on the coordinating fabric to cut the measurements for the scoop.   Here are the measurements I used for a size 10:

  • 4.75” by Width of Front bodice Pattern mark and join markings
  • 4.75” on side by the width of back bodice by 6.75” along fold mark, join with slight curve along the bottom and sight line on the top.
Tutorial pic 2

Follow steps in original Pattern until you get to the construction of the waistband steps on page 20.

Continue with the following steps to achieve a high-low Scoop Back:

1. Lay the front scoop section on top of the back scoop section, with right sides together. Using a stretch stitch sew the side seams (use the same seam allowance as pattern tutorial – ½”)

2. Hem the scoop circle. On the high low raw edge fold up ¼” (wrong sides together) and then another ¾”, press and topstitch.

3. With scoop circle still wrong side out place it over the already constructed raglan (raglan is right side out).  Line up the raw edges of bottom of raglan with top of scoop. Make sure you have the curved hem at the back and the straight hem at the front. 

4. Serge or zigzag stitch the raw edge.

5. Now we will be creating the faux hem of the Raglan and hiding the raw edges whilst creating a faux twin stitch.  Turn shirt right side out, press seam up, away from bottom of shirt.

6. Fold bottom of shirt back into the upper section of the shirt.  Press along the seam you just made in step 4 and 5.

7. Measure ¾” up from the seam and sew a around the shirt. Then pull the bottom of the shirt back down (whole shirt right side out) and press. Stitch second row 1/8” below the row you just made.

You’re Done!

Can’t wait to see your creations, please share them in the LLK Sewing Café Group.